Friday, 26 October 2007

How olive oil is made

A perfect fruit is only the first step to a premium quality olive oil. It also needs of a careful production process that brings out all its qualities. We can distinguish four main stages in the olive oil preparation: fruit recollection, grinding and battering, pressing and, finally, pouring or “decanter”.

At the begging of winter, when the olives have reached their optimum ripeness, the recollection process starts. To protect the integrity and quality of the fruit, the methods used are delicate and precise. In some areas, they carry out this job practically handpicking the olives. The branches are softly caressed until the olives become loose. This system is known as “ordeño” in Spanish, due to the fact that it reminds of the way cows are milked. Other producers employ a technique called “vareo”, where the branches are hit with a long stick to make the olives fall off into a wide net placed on the floor surrounding the tree. In recent times, a machine consisting of a ring that embraces the trunk of the tree and shakes it has been introduced in this process, although some specialistS advise against it. They believe that it could damage the tree in the long run.

From the moment the olives have fallen off the tree, and to avoid deterioration, they need to be carefully stored and processed within 24 hours, at most. Therefore, they are rapidly taken to the oil mill, known as “almazara” or “molino” in Spanish, where they are washed to get rid of any particles such as clay, leaves or twigs. Shortly after, the olives are grinded using only mechanical procedures until a sort of dough is obtained, which will then be battered.

Once this second stage is completed, the dough is pressed so that the solids are retained and the liquids filtered. These liquids consist of a mixture of olive oil and a kind of water called “alpechín” which will need to be separated. This last phase known as “decantado” in Spanish, segregates the two types of liquids by their different density, so that when the mixture is poured into a recipient, the “alpechín” falls to the bottom and the oil stays above. The “alpechín” is extracted through a tap located at the lower part of the recipient. What is left inside is the exquisite liquid gold.

A good extra virgin olive oil retains all its flavours and taste for some twelve months, so it is always advisable to consume it within a year since the production date. After this period, the oil can still be used although it may have lost some of its tasting qualities. It is important to bear in mind that olive oil should be stored in a dry and airy place away from any direct source of light. Furthermore, it should not be placed too close to any other product of intense aroma, as olive oil tends to absorb the smell of anything that surrounds it.

For a fine selection of Spanish extra virgin olive oils please visit our Spanish food online store.

Friday, 19 October 2007

Spanish olive oil: Protected Denominations of Origin

Spain, the biggest olive oil producer in the world, has made a big effort towards quality over the past few decades. Hence it currently boasts over 20 Protected Denominations of Origin (or Denominación de Origen Protegida – D.O.P.) which guarantee not only the quality but also the uniqueness of each variety and production area. Andalusia, being the most prominent production area, concentrates the largest number of D.O.P. followed by Catalonia and Extremadura. The widest D.O.P., in terms of acres being cultivated, is located in Montes de Toledo (Castilla-La Mancha).

Technically, D.O.P.’s are regulated by the European Union and constitute an assurance to consumers that the olive oil has been produced in a precise area using local olive varieties and following certain productions methods that ensure a premium quality liquid.

Once a D.O.P. has been recognised first by the Spanish Department of Agriculture and at a later stage by the competent European authority, the requirements for belonging to a particular D.O.P. are established. A regulatory body is then created to make sure that all olive oil producers associated comply with the requirements and legislation determined by the D.O.P. They also watch over the quality of the final product and, to this end, carry out a variety of tests and controls. In general terms, the olive oils protected are these of premium quality (extra virgin olive oils) and it is not unusual that the maximum acidity level allowed by the D.O.P. is as low as 0,5%.

Some of the most important D.O.P.s in Spain are Baena, Priego de Córdoba, Montes de Granada, Sierra Magina, Sierra de Segura and Sierra de Cazorla in Andalucia; Montes de Toledo in Castilla-La Mancha; Les Garrigues and Siurana in Catalonia; Gata-Hurdes in Extremadura and Bajo Aragón in Aragón.

Let’s look at them in more detail:
  • Beana: it comprises the towns located in the southwest of Córdoba and the varieties of olives protected are Picudo, Hojiblanca, Lechín de Sevilla, Pajarero, Chorrúo and Picual. The oils obtained vary from yellowish to greenish shades and generally have a fruity taste with a hint of bitterness at the end.

  • Priego de Córdoba: it corresponds to the protected area of Sierras Subbéticas in the heart of Andalucia and the olive varieties protected are Picudo and Hojiblanca which give fruity and sweet oil and Picual, which produces oils of a slightly bitter taste.

  • Montes de Granada: it extends through the province of Granada and mainly protects the picual, loaime, lucio and negrillo de Iznalloz. The olive oils produced boast an intense fruity aroma.

  • Sierra Magina: it comprises the natural reserve of Sierra Magina and the protected olive variety is Picual which gives oils of fruity aroma and bitter taste.

  • Sierra de Segura: this D.O.P. assembles the towns scattered throughout the northeast of Jaén where the local varieties protected are mainly Picual and to a lesser extent Hojiblanca and manzanillo de Jaén. The olive oils produced are well balanced and fragrant.

  • Montes de Toledo: it embraces over a hundred towns located in the provinces of Ciudad Real and Toledo and protects the local variety of Cornicabra. The oils obtained are delicate and the aromas reminiscent of almonds.

  • Les Garrigues: it includes the 24 towns that constitute this county in the province of Lleida. The varieties protected are Arbequina and Verdiel which produce fragrant and fruity oils, very much appreciated for their sweetness.

  • Siurana: it corresponds to the counties of Tarragona, located in the southern corner of Catalonia, where the main varieties grown are Arbequina, Royal and Morrut. The olive oils of this D.O.P. are silky, aromatic and slightly sweet.

  • Gata-Hurdes: it embraces five counties in the north of Càceres and the main variety associated to the area is manzanilla cacereña, which gives soft and aromatic oils.

  • Bajo Aragón: it corresponds to the northeast area of Aragón and its most important variety is Empeltre. These oils are golden yellow and have a nice fruity taste.

All in all, D.O.P.’s are guarantors of the richness and tradition associated to olive oil production. However, excellent extra virgin olive oils can also be found outside these regulatory bodies.

For a fine selection of Spanish extra virgin olive oils please visit our Spanish food online store.

Thursday, 11 October 2007

Different varieties of Spanish olive oil

As mentioned in our last article, the mythical olive tree still produces the flavoursome, exquisite and healthy oil that constitutes one of the basic ingredients of Spanish cuisine.

This comes as no surprise if we take into account the fact that Spain produces almost half of all olive oil consumed in the world! The most important production areas are: Andalusia -with over 60% of Spanish production-, Catalonia, Castilla-la-Mancha and Extremadura.

There are up to 30 olive varieties currently being cultivated in Spain for the production of olive oil. The main ones are: Picual from Jaen, Cornicabra from Castilla-la-Mancha, Hojiblanca from Córdoba and Málaga, Lechin from Seville, Empeltre from Aragon and the Balearic Islands and Arbequina from Catalonia.

The first four varieties, all from Andalusia, produce tangy, bitter, fruity and slightly spicy olive oils, very suitable for cooking and fried dishes (the typical Andalusian “fritos”). On the other hand, the Catalan Arbequina olive variety gives sweet, soft and fragrant olive oils, excellent for salads, boiled vegetables, omelettes, mayonnaise and fish dishes.

Let’s go into more detail:
  • ARBEQUINA: it takes its name from the town of Arbeca, located in Les Garrigues county (Lleida- Catalonia) where endless fields of olive trees inundate the landscape. The oil obtained from this variety is delicate but widely appreciated for its fragrance. Its colour is generally dark yellow with a hint of green. Its fruity aroma and sweet and slightly bitter taste lightens up admirably well any salad. It is also an essential ingredient of “pa amb tomaquet” (tomato bread).
  • CORNICABRA: grown in Toledo’s mountain range, this variety gives a balanced and aromatic olive oil. Its fruity and sweet flavour with reminisces of apple and almonds make a perfect salad dressing and it is often used in the preparation of sauces.
  • EMPELTRE: it is grown mainly in Bajo Aragón and the main trait of this olive oil is its captivating golden yellow colour. The ripened black fruits are recollected quite late hence the clear colour, sweet aroma and smooth taste. Due to its sweetness and light texture this variety of olive oil goes well with salads, fish and vegetables.
  • HOJIBLANCA: a popular variety in Andalucia, it is grown in the provinces of Sevilla, Córdoba and Málaga. It produces fragrant, fresh and slightly tangy and piquant oils that are very much appreciated in the preparation of hearty dishes and “frituras”.
  • LECHÍN: it is the reminiscence of fresh herb that determines the main aromatic trait of the fresh and silky olive oils obtained from this variety of olives grown mainly in Sevilla and Cádiz. Its bitter and piquant taste makes a good match to strong dishes.
  • PICUAL: Carpets of olive trees paint the landscape of Jaén, the region in the world with a highest percentage of olive oil production. The main variety grown in this area is Picual with its greenish shades, fresh aromas, fruity taste and a hint of piquant. Ideal to prepare “frituras” and hearty dishes.
Besides the most popular varieties describe here, there are others that complete the map of olive tree growing in Spain. Royal, Farga, Argudell or Morrut in Catalonia; Picudo, Manzanilla or Gordal in Andalucia; Blanqueta in València; Morisca orVerdial in Extremadura are some fine examples of the richness and tradition associated to olive oil production.

For a fine selection of Spanish extra virgin olive oils please visit our Spanish food online store.

Thursday, 4 October 2007

An introduction to Spanish olive oil

Any introduction to this mythological and versatile product central to the Mediterranian life, would be incomplete without exploring the main facts that are guaranteing the survival of this exquisite liquid. This article goes over the current different olive oil categories and health benefits associated to this product.


LIQUID GOLD

Grown from time immemorial in the Mediterranean area, the mythical olive tree still produces the flavoursome, exquisite and healthy oil that constitutes one of the basic ingredients of Spanish cuisine. Nevertheless, not all olives oils are the same. There are two main factors that help us define an olive oil and differentiate it from others: its quality and the specific olive variety chosen. The first has to do with its acidity level and its range of aromas, flavours and taste. The second relates to the type (one or several) of olives selected to produce it. Depending on these variables, two olive oils can be a world apart.


DIFFERENT QUALITIES THAT ARE REFLECTED IN THE PRICE

By law, olive oils are categorised as follows:

1. Extra virgin olive oil (“aceite de oliva extra virgen”): Up to 1% of acidity (quantity of acid found in the oil that indicates, for instance, signs of chemical alteration) and a minimum mark of 6.5 out of 10 awarded by a panel of tasting experts. This is natural “olive juice” in its purest state, with no defects whatsoever. It boasts an interesting and captivating range of aromas and flavours. It is obtained from the mechanical pressing of olives collected in their prime.

2. Virgin olive oil (“aceite de oliva virgen”): Up to 2% of acidity and a minimum mark of 5.5. In other words, a good virgin olive oil that did not make it to the top category.

3. Olive oil (“aceite de oliva”): this olive oil has NOT been obtained through mechanical processes, but rather from the refining of –originally defective- olive oils to which a small quantity of virgin olive oil has been added in order to improve its flavour and reduce its acidity.

Besides de quality of the fruit when it is still in the tree and the meteorological conditions, there are other factors that contribute to ensure defect free oil such as:

  • The right condition and ripeness of the olives when being recollected
  • The less time that elapses from the recollection moment to the production process the better
  • A proper and careful production process using only mechanical procedures at a right temperature
  • A correct pouring off of the liquid and its conservation.

OLIVE OIL AND HEALTH BENEFITS

Olive oil has many nutritional properties, as health authorities and nutritionists all over the world underline regularly. Amongst other benefits, olive oil:

  • Reduces the risk of cardiovascular problems.
  • Has anti-ageing properties due to the high level of vitamin E it contains.
  • Can help to prevent breast and intestinal cancer.
  • Reduces the “bad” cholesterol and increases the “good” one.
  • Reduces the risk of atherosclerosis.
  • Improves bone structure.
  • Helps the digestive system to function properly.
For a fine selection of Spanish extra virgin olive oils, please visit our Spanish food online store.