Tuesday, 15 January 2008

Vinegar: the seasoning spark

This sometimes underrated product was already appreciated by ancient civilisations, which used it as a medicine, drink, condiment or food preserver. Through the centuries its production methods and results have evolved to the point that some vinegars have become coveted gourmet products that fetch astronomical amounts of money.

The result of an unintentional chemical process, vinegar was considered a mere alteration of any alcoholic liquid during centuries. It was in the Middle Ages that its production became more important in countries like France, particularly in Orleans. Producers in this French town -dedicated mostly to wine and vinegar production- noticed by chance that a good part of the liquid contained in the barrels would go off during its shipment to Paris. Its importance became such that they organised themselves in guilds in order to protect their raising industry and the secrets of vinegar preparation.

Although its production blossomed in the next few centuries, little did they know about the chemical process that ended up transforming wine into vinegar. It was not until the 19th century that Louis Pasteur identified the scientific logic behind it: vinegar is in essence a liquid obtained from the oxidation of alcohol which has already been through a fermenting process caused by a bacterium called Mycoderma aceti.

This discovery, together with the technological innovations introduced in the production process, have contributed enormously to improve the quality of this product. Nevertheless, it is worth remembering that the main secret behind an excellent vinegar lies in the quality of the wine used.

The word vinegar –that comes from the Latin “vinum acre” which subsequently gave place to the French “vin aigre” or the Spanish “vino agrio”- is used to describe any drinkable liquid obtained through a double fermentation process: alcoholic and acetic. Hence, there are vinegars made from cider, malt, beer, rice or coconut depending on the abundance of a specific product. It is therefore in wine-producing countries in the South of Europe where wine vinegar is more common, whereas in the North of Europe cider and beer vinegar have traditionally been consumed.

Precisely, only some vinegars prepared in Spain and Italy boast the certificates of origin granted by the European Union as a proof of quality. These are: Vinagre de Jerez -Sherry Vinegar- and Vinagres del Condado de Huelva in Spain, and the Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena e Reggio Emilia in Italy. All the same, France enjoys great prominence in the vinegar production industry. It is not a coincidence that the ones produced in Orleans gave name to one of the two main production techniques. The method of Orleans consists in filling three fourths of an oak cask with wine. The upper layer gets in contact with the air and it transforms itself in fresh vinegar. On the other side, the German method is based on airing the wine introduced in horizontal barrels together with beech wooden shavings.

For a fine selection of Spanish vinegars please visit our Spanish food online store.

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